I can remember when my appreciation for Mexican food started. We never ate anything like it in my house while I was growing up, but I had some friends who were from Mexico and Guatemala. The first time I went to my friend Koko's house for a meal, his mom had prepared a meal with tortillas and various sauces that had a peppery aroma. I recall the smells more than the tastes. I think Koko was somewhat embarassed by having an Anglo friend over to share such an ethnic meal, but it was fantastic.
Later when I was in university, there used to be a place in Westwood Village called the El Toril that served Mexican food and was usually jammed every night with students drinking beer, eating hot, moist tortillas and debating whether it was a good thing or a bad thing that the Shah of Iran had been booked as the commencement speaker. Or were we just worried about parking problems?
The Search for the Best
Living in California provided continuous access to some of the best Mexican food in the world. And I had a list of great restaurants, cantinas and stands in various cities around the state. I can't list them any more and most of them have probably vanished. When I visited the Napa Valley on a cycling tour recently, while the other cyclists sought art galleries, wineries, and shopping in the cities we toured, I kept on the lookout for places that made tamales. Northern California has some of the best cantinas and most of them are too small to have websites, so you won't find them listed here.
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| My friend Jeff, a professional photographer, asked me to fill-in for a cook at a local B and B because the uniform they had was too small for the real cook. I love show business. |
Many years ago, a restaurant in Victoria near where I worked featured an all-you-could-eat taco bar. Finally, I thought I had struck a gold mine. I think the cost was only like four dollars and the ingredients were fresh and varied. A good friend and I would visit this place for lunch and proceed to eat many tacos. I don't remember whether we competed with each other to see who could eat the most, but after a few weeks, the restaurant went out of business. Now there is a great burrito place downtown, so I can have my cravings satsified there. E-mail me if you want to know the name of this place.
Since I have this great yearning for Mexican food, I have devised a very simple test to determine whether I would go back to a restaurant that serves such food. I look to see if the menu includes tamales. If this is the case, then I sample the tamale, and it is the taste of this particular food that tells me whether this is a worthwhile establishment. Tamales are not easy to make and usually require mucho preparation. One item that I found on the Internet is an electric tamale machine. I think it was invented for mass producing tamales.
So far the best tamales on the planet are actually at a very out of the way place called Leona's in Chimayo, New Mexico. Leona's is next to El Santurario de Chimayo where a miracle occured, so many tourists come to this place and it was the attraction that prompted our visit. The great thing about New Mexico is that "Mexican" food is available everywhere, not just in "Mexican" restaurants. There was, for a brief time, a deli in the Victoria area that was run by a woman from Mexico, and she would with notice prepare tamales. They were delicious, but she is no longer in the business. My piece of heaven diminished, but only slightly.
The next best place in the solar system for tamales is in Corte Madera, California. It's called David's. They have four types, but my favorite is their chicken tamale, which is made with organic chicken and very tasty masa corn flour. All the tamales are handmade and one tamale is a full meal. It's a small place with outdoor seating and a very friendly and hard-working staff. Unfortunately, when I returned to visit in 2004, it had gone out of business and morphed into a fast food, yet healthy burrito place a couple of doors away. I couldn't eat there, however, cause I already knew that the best burritos in Marin County are actually at Lucinda's, a true hole-in-the-wall type place in Mill Valley/Tiburon.
Tamales Festivals
There is a International Tamale Festival in Indio (near Palm Springs) California and that it takes place on the first weekend in December of each year. I've known about this event for years and have dreamed about going. In 2004 my dream became a reality. I thought it was probably a small, local event, but the attendance this year was over 30,000 people for the weekend. This two-day event featured more than 40 tamale booths; the tamales ranged from organic blue corn to desert tamales to tamales with all types of fillings. There were also carnvial rides plus booths selling other stuff and several bands playing around the event grounds.
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| Grandma Lupe headed a family crew that prepared tamales non-stop and the long wait was worth every minute. |
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| Indio Tamale Festival: By this time we were sampling the chocolate tamales. |
There are other tamales events in California, but I haven't attended any of them yet. In June of each year there is the two-day Story Road Tamale Festival in San Jose, California. Another yearly tamales festival is held in the famous Alvarado Street area of Los Angeles in November. For more information about this festival visit their website.
Other Great Tamale Places If you are in Birmingham, and you go to D's and you have access to flying on a jet carrier like Flexjet, please put some of his specialties in a freezer bag and fly them to me in Victoria to sample.
Tamales in My Hometown
In addition to shopping for fruits and veggies, jams, flowers, clothing, and jewelry, you can listen to a great musical group or soloist (different each week), and have a delicious meal or snack at different food booths. What a surprise it was for me that the 2007 season of the Moss Street Market included a tamale booth! Run by Scott Martin, this booth provided three different types of sensational tamales, steaming hot and ready to eat. He also provided frozen versions to take home.
The success of Scott's offerings at the Moss Street Market led to his opening of a restaurant that specializes in authentic Mexican food and features his same wonderful tamales plus tacos, quesadilla, and tostadas. He has prepared a variety of tasty fillings, and you can adjust the spicyness to suit your taste. The restaurant is in easy cycling distance from my home, and it is called iÓrale!. It's located on Johnson Street at Quadra, and is below the Revenue Canada headquarters in Victoria. The restaurant is spacious, informal, and very clean, and it has tables in a patio outside that is below street level. You can enjoy the sunshine, eat your tamales, and not be bothered by the generous traffic that uses Johnson Street. Although I always order the tamales when I go there, they have other tasty things on the menu, and you can still order frozen tamales to take home. Their website is www.orale.ca.
If you come to visit Victoria, British Columbia, another place for a really good, homemade tamale is Adriana's Cocina Mexicana located at 1527 Amelia Street in a restored turn-of-the-century residence. This is a more formal dining experience, and reservations are typically necessary. Although you will find many wonderful and tasty dishes on her menu, you won't find tamales listed; you have to ask for them. They keep a special supply for me, and I've told Adriana that anyone who asks for one can have one (maybe two or three) from my secret supply.
If you have a favorite Mexican food place, or if you know of places that make great tamales, please e-mail me, I want to try it out. You can e-mail me at rcarr@islandnet.com.
Since creating this page I have from time to time received information from various places that believe they make a great tamale. Unfortunately, I can't really try them out because import regulations don't allow shipping tamales into Canada (whoever thought up that law?). Anyway what follows here are names and addresses of places I plan to visit some time to check out their tamale:
101 Hueytown Plaza
Hueytown, Alabama 35023 (near Birmingham)
(205) 491-3333
e-mail: Darryldcrockett@aol.com
5000 S. 23rd St.
McAllen, TX 78503
(956) 630-3502
e-mail: slubin@email.msn.com
1242 Pico Street
San Fernando, CA 91340
(818) 365-1636
www.carrillostamales.com
2817 24th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 824-2600
Reviews
1 Ferry Plaza (Farmer's Market)
San Francisco, CA 94101
Find on a Map
One of the greatest elements of living in Victoria are the local community markets. There are several that take place on the weekends, but the closest one to my house is the Moss Street Market. This market is unique because the organizers only allow locally-grown, organic produce as well as locally produced crafts and foods.
Moss Street Market: The line-up moves quickly. The only thing that slows it down is trying to decide which one of the three types to select. I don't have that problem: I get one of each.