Beware of trick-or-treating pranksters on Halloween night. This is the night I do not leave my pond, my pets, my house unattended. Many years ago, I was a kid myself, but I swear to you, I was NEVER a practical joker and certainly would not have harmed someone’s fish. But on this night, unsuspecting visitors could dump toxic things into the pond or fall in while taking a short-cut through your yard. Be on the lookout for the unattended youths that might bring disaster to your pond. Be prepared for emergencies. Have on hand Microbe-Lift/PL, TheraP, ML/Aqua Xtreme, ML/Nite Out II, and Quarantine Tank Salt in case you have to set up a quarantine tank on the QT. Remember, as weather turns colder, any fish that are brought indoors for treatment might just have to remain indoors until the spring, depending upon where you are in the north. It’s probably time for some of you to add your second application of Autumn Winter Prep. The best time to start adding the dry packet(s) is when the leaves begin to fall in your area.

This is the time of year that your fish will actually use the nutrients in food for growth and development. If you want to grow big, healthy fish, this is the time to do it. Earlier in the season fish will use the nutrient intake for egg production. As long as your water temperatures remain above 65F, give them ML/Legacy High Growth and Energy with Crustacean, Kelp or Krill treats. Be careful of trick-or-treaters, just like in the north. When anything is tossed into the pond, your friendly fish will think it is food.

The much-sought-after online MICROBE-LIFT WATERGARDENER MAGAZINE

can be found at http://www.microbelift.com/. This is the Spring/Summer issue- better late than never! You will find more helpful information in caring for your pond, plants and fish in this issue. Since Carolyn went on a self-guided pond tour earlier this spring, the photography was selected from various areas, with many of the ponds in the Bradenton/Sarasota area of Florida. You might even see your own pond in there!

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://www.microbelift.com/uploadme/93MLSprSum.Mag.LoRes.pdf
 

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://www.microbelift.com/uploadme/94MLSprSum.Mag.HiRes5.pdf

That gunk in your filter is not Microbe-Lift bacteria. It’s dirt. Clean it out and re-inoculate the media with PL Gel.

Salt does not evaporate from the pond. Only water changes (and heavy rains) will lower your salinity level.

Microbe-Lift/PL is not an algaecide. It only helps algae control by removing organic waste and then, if you’re lucky, by taking nitrate out of the water.

Koi are tougher than you think. Give them clean water and there’s practically nothing that will stop them.
 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Whew! It finally warmed up in the north. For some, this has been a rainy, cool season while others are enjoying the relief from summer heat. It’s already time to begin (if you haven’t already) using ML/Autumn Winter Prep. This product is an all-time favorite of pond owners from coast to coast. The two-part AWP system prepares the pond for colder months with a 4-month application. It is okay to add the liquid bacteria through a hole in the ice, if your pond is frozen by the time you get to the last dosage. It is okay to put the little water-soluble baggies into that hole, too. AWP contains the cold-tolerant transitional liquid bacteria AND the cellulase enzyme/bacteria for your off-season cold-water pond. The packets will speed up the breakdown of any leaf material or small twigs that blow into the pond. No matter how tightly you net your pond, some leaves always seem to get through. Leaves just do not break down as easily or quickly as other debris and will build up as a ‘parasite haven’ in the bottom of your pond if you do not get rid of them quickly. 

We are still in the “hurricane season” so here are a few more helpful tips to safeguard your pond against flash floods: 1) Stop feeding the fish if there is a storm on the horizon. They will do fine without food for up to a week and this will prevent severe ammonia spikes should the power outage last for extended time. 2) Sand bags piled around ground-level ponds might help keep koi confined if flooding occurs. 3) Lower the pond level before the rain begins. 4) Remove anything that can fall or blow in high winds. 5) Use Microbe-Lift/TheraP and Microbe-Lift/PL for the overall health of the fish and pond. They are not dependent upon power to perform their duties. 6) Keep ML/Test Strips, ML/Ammonia Remover, ML/Dechlorinator+, and ML/Stress Relief on hand. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best! Watch the weather forecasts and remember, Ecological Laboratories is here for you through thick and thin. 

The much-sought-after online MICROBE-LIFT WATERGARDENER MAGAZINE

can be found at http://www.microbelift.com/. This is the Spring/Summer issue- better late than never! You will find more helpful information in caring for your pond, plants and fish in this issue. Since Carolyn went on a self-guided pond tour earlier this spring, the photography was selected from various areas, with many of the ponds in the Bradenton/Sarasota area of Florida. You might even see your own pond in there!

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://www.microbelift.com/uploadme/93MLSprSum.Mag.LoRes.pdf
 

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://www.microbelift.com/uploadme/94MLSprSum.Mag.HiRes5.pdf

Our Pondless Waterfall installation is complete in Cape Coral, Florida! We are not a pond-building company, but we persevered and (with help from our friends in the business) finally built a beauty of a waterfall at the Ecological Laboratories, Inc South facility. We want to use all our products in order to best serve you. You can solve only so many problems with theories, so we are putting it all to work for you. The fish room is fully operational, where we test the aquarium line of Microbe-Lift products in-house before offering them to hobbyists. If you have an aquarium (for those “off-season” months when your pond may be covered with snow) take a look at our full scope Microbe-Lift Aquarium line. 

Koi enjoy a fresh watermelon almost as much as you! (But, when they are done, take it out and throw the rind away.)

Overstocked ponds, in summer, risk oxygen depletion. Add oxygen. Use additional bubblers, aerators, spitters, fountains, venturis, and do frequent water changes (using Dechlorinator Plus).

Dirty ponds are at highest risk of oxygen depletion and fish loss. Remove any uneaten food and vacuum bottom solids, if possible. Maintain a cleaner pond with PL or HC. Use a bottom drain and clean the filters weekly.

Using Sludge Away speeds up the removal of bottom solids and binds phosphates. Increased bio-activity will use more oxygen. Using good hygienic practices to maintain a clean pond is better than “catching up” now. 

Koi can become sunburned, especially if they are white-skinned fish.

Koi Shows are a great way to learn more about the hobby!
 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

August traditionally is filled with heat, thunderstorms, drought, cicadas and algae. Warmer pond water does not sustain life as well due to increased oxygen demand. Algae is a double-edged sword in the hottest month of the year. If you leave it alone, you will prevent the oxygen demand of breaking it down after having killed it, but if you remove it, you have taken a big part of the (during the daylight) oxygenating system. My advice is to maintain a very clean system, thereby limiting biological oxygen demand, and check water parameters often. If a water change is warranted, do it. If the water temps are in the 85-90F range, you can help by cutting back (or stopping) feeding and switching to Legacy Cold Weather food. Beware of lightning and fish that suddenly swim with a crooked spine after a storm. Use ML/Ensure to boost the stress-resistance of your water aquatic plants and TheraP for your fish in August. 

Lightning, hurricanes, drought, extreme heat (triple digits), A/C on the blink… these are some of the problems faced by the warmer areas of the country. In addition, many areas are known for wildfires and flash floods. I live in the south and think the weather is “exciting” at all times. But, how do my fish feel about all this? The same water temperature warnings listed for the North will apply here. Legacy Cold Weather Koi & Goldfish food might just be the best food to feed all summer. Evaporation can be a problem unless you have an auto-refill. Even auto-refills, if not attached to the well, can have drawbacks (chlorine/chloramine). Water changes and top-offs will be necessary. Hopefully, you have installed an emergency overflow system, too. If sudden heavy rains hit, you want your overflow system to have netting to prevent fish from washing through the pipes. Use PL (with or without filtration) and keep ML/Ammonia Remover and Nite Out II on hand for power outage emergencies. 

The much-sought-after online MICROBE-LIFT WATERGARDENER MAGAZINE

can be found at http://www.microbelift.com/. This is the Spring/Summer issue- better late than never! You will find more helpful information in caring for your pond, plants and fish in this issue. Since Carolyn went on a self-guided pond tour earlier this spring, the photography was selected from various areas, with many of the ponds in the Bradenton/Sarasota area of Florida. You might even see your own pond in there!

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://www.microbelift.com/uploadme/93MLSprSum.Mag.LoRes.pdf

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://www.microbelift.com/uploadme/94MLSprSum.Mag.HiRes5.pdf

Ecological Laboratories, Inc is expanding our facilities again! We are increasing half of our operation into a new building across the street. Now, we are becoming a community unto ourselves, so to speak, living on both sides of the block. 

And, while the economy is in disarray, pocketbooks hurting and stocks plummeting, more and more people are realizing the benefits of using nature’s power to maintain their ponds. Ecological Laboratories products are helping in many natural ways (and we’re also reducing unemployment levels).   Microbe-Lift not only gives us clean water, but the water “cleaners” in a bottle. Microbe-Lift has developed breakthrough technologies in many other areas, including aquarium, septic, aquaculture and agriculture. Diversity is nature and nature is diverse. Take a look at our website. Seeing is believing.

Koi enjoy a fresh watermelon almost as much as you! (But, when they are done, take it out and throw the rind away.)

Overstocked ponds, in summer, risk oxygen depletion. Add oxygen. Use additional bubblers, aerators, spitters, fountains, venturis, and do frequent water changes (using Dechlorinator Plus).

Dirty ponds are at highest risk of oxygen depletion and fish loss. Remove any uneaten food and vacuum bottom solids, if possible. Maintain a cleaner pond with PL or HC. Use a bottom drain and clean the filters weekly.

Using Sludge Away speeds up the removal of bottom solids and binds phosphates. Increased bio-activity will use more oxygen. Using good hygienic practices to maintain a clean pond is better than “catching up” now. 

Koi can become sunburned, especially if they are white-skinned fish.

Koi Shows are a great way to learn more about the hobby!

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Pond Tours, Koi & Garden Shows, outdoor events… the weather is finally warm enough to enjoy the fruits of your labors. Continue using MICROBE-LIFT/PL (or HC if your pond is 10,000+ gallons) to keep organic waste to a minimum. In rock-lined ponds, it’s time to use Sludge Away in addition to PL to prevent sludge buildup. Clean filters as often as they need it, which should at least be once weekly, and use ML/PL Gel to re-inoculate the pads and filter media after washing them out. Water should be tested at least once a week to head off trouble. Look for rising ammonia, nitrite, nitrate or phosphate levels. Be on the lookout for dropping alkalinity levels that can result in reduced nitrification process (and ammonia/nitrite buildup as a result). If levels are going “up” it’s time to do a water change… ‘A stitch in time saves nine.'

Monitor your water temperature and weather forecasts. Warmer water does not maintain the oxygen as easily as cold water. Be prepared for emergencies with battery operated aerators, back-up generators, careful feeding and by maintaining a clean pond. Use ML/PL (or HC if your pond is 10,000+ gallons) to keep organic waste to a minimum. If a storm is heading your way, do a partial water change and add aeration before the storm hits. Clean filter media, backwash bead filters, and stop feeding. It’s a good idea to build an overflow system so the fish never have the opportunity to swim “out” of the pond if your area begins to flood. Have buckets on hand to bail out the pond if necessary. If you get runoff in the pond, use PL to break it down… ‘Cleanliness is next to Godliness.’ 

Ecological Laboratories, Inc has built four beautiful planter boxes out of stone retainer wall and planted with specially chosen plants to survive the environment with the least amount of care (Xeriscaped!). Using a variety of MICROBE-LIFT enhanced agricultural products, the plants are flourishing. We are installing a Pondless Waterfall at the Cape Coral, Florida MICROBE-LIFT factory. The seasonal rainy season is against us, as is the 100F+ heat, but slowly it is coming to fruition. We want visitors to our facility to witness MICROBE-LIFT products IN USE, literally everywhere you look! For the Pondless Waterfalls out there, we are packaging a pair of favorites, PL and OxyPond Cleaner. These two products, used in a pondless waterfall water feature, will assure clean water and long life for the pump. 

Our fish room is finished (for our Aquarium line of products) and the new Herbal Water Conditioners (Sabbactisun and Parazoryne for ponds-- Herbtana and Artemiss for Aquariums) are taking the market by STORM! We have had overwhelming success in testing these products for use in treating bacterial and parasitic infestations, more than we could even have hoped for! 

A clean pond has less oxygen demand…

Under-stocked ponds can withstand power outages better…

Planktonic algae can be controlled with AlgAway 5.4. Use OxyPond Cleaner to control the environment that supports string algae.

Larger fish die first if the water is oxygen deprived; smaller fish die first if the water has toxicity.

MICROBE-LIFT/PL will remove nitrate from water in anaerobic zones (filter, biofilm).

Every koi has its own personality; some will NEVER let you pet them while others will beg for attention.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

We still need to use the water temperature as our best gauge of which product to use, what food will be best to feed, and how much. June is a pretty uniform “start of summer” throughout the country, especially in the north. Even koi in a spring-fed pond which never warms over 60F, the fish will adapt. They know the days are getting longer, so you can add more protein to the diet. I’m not giving undue credit for intellect to fish, just that they intuit what we need to read about. Give them Microbe-Lift/Legacy Summer Staple and add Fruits & Greens and Immunostimulant Food (each has min. 36% protein, and fish meal is the #1 ingredient). Soon, you will add Legacy Growth & Energy (40% protein). The really important factor is that these are perfectly balanced diets for koi and goldfish, offering the best ingredients (in the proper amounts for the health of your pets) and all contain Stabilized-C and important bacteria to bolster the fish’s gut. Healthy fish, from the inside out!   Our foods will not cloud water, but if uneaten food remains in the pond, it will not “help” the look of your pond. I recommend shutting off the skimmer while fish are feeding so the food doesn’t collect in there, tempting the fish into the skimmer. Use Microbe-Lift/PL (or HC in ponds over 5,001 gallons) to maintain a balanced system.

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/92WGFallWinter2008small.pdf

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/91WaterGardenFallWinter08.pdf

Southern ponds are more concerned with heat and weather right now, right? And algae have set into a lot of ponds that were clean and clear a month ago. What happens is the bacteria need to catch up to the increased feeding and increased waste loading. Meanwhile, there are lots of errant nutrients in the water. Fish food brings phosphates with it and the end product of ammonia is nitrate. These are the big “algae feeders” in your pond. If you keep koi, you will be tempted to overfeed. Remember, you aren’t overfeeding the fish, you are overfeeding the pond. Once you have algae, you can treat with AlgAway 5.4. AlgAway 5.4 is EPA registered, safe for use in ponds with fish and plants. This presumes you know how many gallons are in your pond and will provide adequate aeration to the fish (and don’t have the pond overstocked to where the fish will suffer lack of oxygen when you kill the algae). If you have a warm southern pond, add a UV sterilizer to the system. You won’t be troubled by green water (Planktonic algae). If you don’t have a UV, use AlgAway 5.4. You may need to repeat the treatment with Planktonic algae since it proliferates at an alarming rate. But, use once a week and you will get it cleared up. Before the really hot weather arrives, lower your stocking density and do water changes to prepare for power outages when storms are on the horizon. Use PL (or HC in ponds over 5,001 gallons) to clean up the dead algae plants and maintain the cleanest water possible.

Bees- an occasional koi will have anaphylactic shock from a bee sting and can die. (However, this is rare and most will not be harmed.)

Hail- after the initial onset of heavy rain or hail on the water, koi will surface, trying to eat whatever is assailing their pond. Koi have died this way.

Rain- koi will benefit from fresh water after a heavy rain unless your pond allows runoff from neighboring areas. Runoff can bring soil contaminants (including pesticides, fertilizers), insects (that’s good) and debris (that’s awful for a filter).

Heat- koi are poikilotherms (cold-blooded) and have no way to cool themselves. A pond with 5’ or greater depth will have a greater variance of temperatures (cooler on bottom and more stable altogether) to relieve the koi. Shading the filter, if not the pond itself, can be helpful in extreme sun conditions.

Plants- oxygenating plants will only add oxygen during the day, when it is sunny. In cloudy days and at night, it takes in oxygen, like any other plant (and competes with the fish), giving off carbon dioxide.  They are not the “solution” to over-stocking the pond. Koi will probably eat or make a mess out of them.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

I consider May to be a pivotal month, particularly for the colder climates. May (around Mother’s Day) is traditionally the New York/New Jersey/Connecticut area Pond Opening Season. Sure, there are many who can’t wait for the season to warm up or have simply gotten fed up with winter, and jumped the gun. But until your water temperatures are safely in the 50’s Fahrenheit, your beneficial bacteria (i.e. - Nitrifiers, heterotrophs and the rest) are not going to be up to the task of keeping down the pollution. When this happens, fish suffer. When fish are stressed by poor water quality, they become ill. Some may die if conditions are not remedied soon enough. When May comes, frost and freezes should be past and you will no longer need to do constant water changes to keep up with deteriorating water conditions. Why?? It’s because the beneficial bacteria are now up and running at full speed, getting stronger every day. It’s time to raise the water lilies and sensitive plants that were sunk to the bottom of a water garden now. It is time to add more greenery. It’s time to work less and enjoy more of your pond. Add Microbe-Lift/PL regularly now and throughout the summer, into fall. If your pond is over 5,000 gallons, use HC instead of PL. Less than 5,000 gallons use PL. We made them especially for smaller/larger sized ponds, to do the job at hand. Add Nite-Out II to any pond containing fish. Nite Out II contains your Nitrifying bacteria. Nitrifiers are slow-growers, so you want as many as you can get – now – into the water.

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/92WGFallWinter2008small.pdf

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/91WaterGardenFallWinter08.pdf

Southern ponders have been feeding and adding bacteria for a couple of months. Our water may be in the 80’s already. You always need to monitor water temperatures when figuring out what to do and when to do it in a pond. Southern ponds have cool nights and very hot days, so a deeper pond is still an important construction consideration (especially if you keep koi). We have to shade our ponds and be ready to STOP feeding when water temps reach 85-90F. Southern experts advocate “no feeding” for one month during the winter to allow the fish to reabsorb their eggs. Although the water temperatures are still in the 60-70’s ranges, withholding food is beneficial in preventing egg-impaction. Filter maintenance and routine water changes continue throughout the year. But the rainy season will bring another challenge: flooding and overflowing ponds. May is the perfect time to set up an adequate overflow system for your pond to prevent losing precious fish when the rains start in June. Adding an aerating bottom drain, if at all possible, will help get through power outages by keeping the water at optimal oxygen levels. Use Microbe-Lift/PL to clean ponds which have had debris washed in by flooding. And net the pond to prevent the fish from swimming OUT…

ALGAE is not a sign of a dirty pond. It is a sign of excess nutrients in the water. Can dirt be a contributor? Yes, it can. 

FILTERS need to be cleaned regularly. Gunk collects. The gunk is NOT your beneficial bacteria. It is gunk. Remove it for a healthier pond.

FISH - we do not keep fish, we keep the water they live in. Hopefully, we do it well and the fish thrive.

DISEASE reportedly does not kill fish, nor do parasites. It is stress that kills fish. The #1 stressor of fish is water quality. Beneficial bacteria and water changes go a long way to preserving water quality.

WATER CHANGES do not flush out your beneficial bacteria. They are “glued” to rocks, liners, plants and filters. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

What do we have in April? We have April Fool’s Day. We have the Income Tax filing deadline. We have Easter. We have Passover. And we have Microbe-Lift Spring Summer Cleaner. And for all the rest, we have Sabbactisun and Parazoryne! I have added another fish tank to my office. (No, it’s not a fish room, just an office with fish in it.) I have the side-by-side Betta bowls and now an aerated guppy tank. I’m treating the new guppies with a 10-day regimen of Sabbactisun because upon arrival at the office, having set up the tank and then examined the fish… oh, dear! One of the females had a nasty tail infection that went un-noticed at the store. She is responding superbly even though the entire tail (peduncle) appendage was badly involved. If I had suspected parasite infestation, I’d treat with Parazoryne. Maybe I will treat with Parazoryne anyway, as a matter of proper quarantine. At home, my pond is covered, inside a screened lanai area, so there are no leaves collecting getting in and no need to stretch a net over it in fall/winter. A new UV bulb for the probable (but not required) Planktonic algae bloom, and we are all set as air temperatures soar into the 80’s and 90’s once again. You say you are still having snow storms?? Oh, goodness. And you have an algae bloom, too?? Oh, dear. I’d say a water change, weather permitting, Spring Summer Cleaner, and some good circulation are in order. If the algae are so thick you can’t run the pump, then use AlgAway 5.4—do something about it! Ponds are for our enjoyment so let’s clean them up and enjoy them!

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/92WGFallWinter2008small.pdf

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/91WaterGardenFallWinter08.pdf

Lately, I have been receiving calls about one of our old favorites, Microbe-Lift/Sludge Away. I think it’s time to look at this product again. Sludge Away contains 50% bio-accelerant to speed up the breakdown and removal of “sludge” or bottom solids (organics that have not broken down with normal use, normal filtration and the normal applications of PL or HC alone). The most typical feature of Sludge Away is its dark color. It is not an algaecide although by removing organic “food” sources your algae problems will be thus limited. It is not the same as Spring Summer Cleaner (which has been asked, if this might be a liquid form of SSC). Spring Summer Cleaner will target the cellulose organic waste (leaves and other small twigs) in your pond which is so slow to degrade that they build up quickly. Sludge Away, being a bio-accelerant, needs an ambient temperature (I suggest around 60F) to be really effective because the microbes we want to speed up have a metabolic rate that limits activity in cooler water temperatures. Microbe-Lift/PL and HC will work at water temperatures as low as 45F, but will become faster at the higher temperature ranges. Hence, Sludge Away can give them a good boost when they are “able” to do the job faster. Now, if used with a bio-enzymatic product, such as SSC, it can be useful at lower temperatures (below 45F). [It is not recommended to be used simultaneously with SSC in warmer water because of the potential biological oxygen demand produced by these two products.] Did I mention that it also BINDS PHOSPHATE and improves water clarity?? Sludge Away is 100% natural, active ingredients and can be used with any of our bacterial or enzymatic products.

Spring water temps are more important for the bacteria than the koi when determining onset of the season’s feeding. If the bacteria are not ready to convert ammonia to nitrite (and then to nitrate), the fish will be stressed, or worse, by too-early feeding.

Fish food nutrients naturally break down over time, like human foods. Now is the time to restock with fresh food in preparation for the start of feeding.

Using fertilizers in potted water plants can add to your algae blooms. You can minimize or eliminate the feeding by using Microbe-Lift/Ensure and Bloom & Grow.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Well, hopefully, spring! Hasn’t this winter been a challenge and a half ?? March is supposed to come “in like a lion and out like a lamb” or vice versa. So, if the beginning of March on the east coast is any indication, we are headed for some really nice weather (soon) this month. This is the time to clean out any leftover leaves in the pond, once you can get to the pond, that is, and add Microbe-Lift/Spring Summer Cleaner for the particles you can’t remove by hand. If you have leftover AWP, you can add the liquid to transition into “live” bacteria, too. As soon as the water warms consistently past 45 F, you may begin the regimen with Microbe-Lift/PL. Although PL won’t die at lower temperatures, it won’t work very well below 45 F. Like other live organisms, fish for instance, their metabolism slows down in cold water. So, clean up the pond, check your plumbing as soon as the weather breaks and assess the “winter damage”. Then, you should do a partial water change and start up with Microbe-Lift bacteria. You know that our vegetative and photosynthetic bacteria can handle even the biggest clean-up jobs.

In addition, spring water warming results in an increase in pond biology, and a significant increase in the breakdown of pond organic matter. This will result in an increase in ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. To resolve this age old and potential water toxicity problem, MICROBELIFT offers a fast one day solution. Simply add MICROBE-LIFT/PL that will speed the breakdown of pond waste matter, seed the filter and drive nitrification removing any and all inhibitory compounds for the nitrification process. Then add MICROBE-LIFT/Nite Out ll, our nitrifying culture to establish the necessary nitrification process that normally is very slow and difficult to develop. This is the microbe required for ammonia removal. Now for the good news, those of you that understand the nitrification process understand that the by-product of ammonia removal (nitrification) is nitrate. Well, MICROBE-LIFT/PL provides de-nitrification and can effectively remove nitrate from your pond without water changes. These two products will start your pond quickly and control the pond’s environment all year long. Add Nite Out II whenever ammonia problems appear. But be sure to check for carbonate alkalinity as this is necessary for the Nitrifiers to complete nitrification. 

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/92WGFallWinter2008small.pdf

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/91WaterGardenFallWinter08.pdf

MALE koi and goldfish develop “whiskers” before breeding, each spring, on their noses, gills and pectoral fins to stimulate egg-laying females. These whiskers can easily be mistaken for Ich, if you don’t know what to look for.

Ich does not look like the “white spot” disease in a pond that you see in aquarium fish. It can be better detected by fish behavior and microscope examination.

Chilodonella and Costia are the cold-water parasites that kill fish. Early spring is a good time for a 15-21 day Salt treatment.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Maybe not right now, but algae are coming up. Getting ahead of the algae takes practice. In addition to using Microbe-Lift/AlgAway 5.4 or the Mean Green Algae Team to clear your “green” this year, there are other things you can plan for 2009 that will be helpful. Any pond containing fish, especially ones that we feed, will contain varying amounts of excess nutrients. Like any other photosynthetic plants algae starts early in the season and welcomes the nutrients our fish throw at them. One way to limit the algae is through water changes. Another is to limit the feeding or the amount of fish we keep. But, another is to use desirable plants to take up nutrients. Oh, well, that’s nothing new… But, instead of leaving them in the pond, at the end of the season it would be really great if you could take those nutrient-eating plants OUT OF THE POND and put them into the compost pile. All plants take up nutrients, namely nitrogen and phosphates. If the plant is allowed to wither and die in your pond, guess where those nutrients go ? Yes, they go back into the pond. And this is why many people have called me to ask why, now that the season is over and the water is cold, algae are alive and well. There’s just suddenly more nutrients in the water once the plants start dying. The same principle applies to using algaecides to kill the stuff: The nutrients are left in the pond. You need to apply a biological means to remove them before – guess what? – A brand new algae bloom!  Well, don't wait until you have an algae bloom!  Microbe-Lift Barley Straw Pellets and Microbe-Lift/ Concentrated Barley Straw Extract are best utilized as preventive additives whereas most people will be disappointed when they try to use them as curative, in place of AlgAway 5.4, when it is too late.

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/92WGFallWinter2008small.pdf

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/91WaterGardenFallWinter08.pdf

AlgAway 5.4 will kill most Planktonic, filamentous and mat algae quickly and efficiently. When using AlgAway 5.4 and any Microbe-Lift bacteria together, AlgAway 5.4 should be added first when visible algae is present. Wait two days after adding any AlgAway 5.4 application before applying any Microbe-Lift bacteria. AlgAway 5.4 exhibits no phytotoxicity, so the water is safe to use for irrigation, turf and shrubs. It is nitrate and phosphate free. Since there are so many variables in ponds affecting algae growth (stocking density, feeding regimen, types of food used, other pollutants, water temperatures, nutrient levels, filtration capacity, etc.), it may take repeated applications to gain control of an algae population. In 2008 we introduced AlgAway 5.4 for Aquariums. We now have AlgAway 5.4 for Fountains!

A word about algae: Algae is an underwater plant, a weed, and it takes up excess nutrients in the pond water (from fish, fish foods and other pollutants). When it dies, in the pond, it will release all the nutrients contained within back into the pond (nitrogen and phosphate). For this reason, it is most expedient to remove, by hand, as much string algae as possible, before treating the pond. It is also important to add Beneficial Bacteria (Microbe-Lift/PL) two days after treating the pond to remove the dead alga plants as quickly as possible. The Microbe-Lift bacteria can also contribute to long-term nitrate removal by converting the nitrates to nitrogen gas (via denitrification).

That black slime in your pond or water may be “red” algae, even though it doesn’t look red.

Accidental AlgAway overdose can be instantly corrected by adding Sludge Away to the water.

PL, TheraP, Ensure, Bloom & Grow, and literally ALL our biological products (bacteria) can be used together. There is no potential for overdose harming your fish.

If your natural-bottom pond is experiencing weed growth, it may be a form of plant-like algae… or it may be pond weed.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

A brand new year, for me, is like a gift, an opportunity to make life better in some big or small way. I always figure that my yard is what is presented to the world (and neighbors) to enjoy, so I want it to look its best. I choose the best plants, trees which will thrive in my area with the least amount of care, simple, elegant statuary to emphasize the statement made by my yard, and the considerations given to my carefully selected koi. My home practically screams “welcome, friend”. And then I stand back, watch, and glow with pride as they suck in their breath at first sight of the beautiful pond. It’s automatic, everybody does it! Yes, I know it’s only January, but it’s always summer somewhere in the world. I have last year’s videos from summer to enjoy until the really warm weather returns. This year, I am making my New Year’s Resolutions around my pond. I do 5-10 resolutions per year, which is doable, and write them on a piece of paper which is stuck into my wallet. At the end of the year I can see how I’ve done. Most of the time I do very well. I want to add another fish this year, something extremely colorful but not a showa. I want to feed only high-quality foods and no leftovers from 2008. I will start the PL bacteria as soon as my water temps are between 45-50F and follow the regimen religiously for best results. I will add a timer for my bottom drain aerators to assure good oxygenation and better, cleaner bottom. And I will use the quarantine system like I tell everyone else to do! Here’s to a great year, 2009!

LOW REZ LINK (for viewing on computer screen; quick loading):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/92WGFallWinter2008small.pdf

HIGH REZ LINK (for high quality printing: longer loading time):
http://microbelift.com/uploadme/91WaterGardenFallWinter08.pdf

January is the time to shop around for the best prices and stock up on your pond needs. Throw out the old food. It’s lost its nutritional value by now if it’s leftover from last year and why take a chance? Clean up nets, pumps and other equipment. Sort out your photos and get your records in order. Check what you need to look for, prepare for, by reading through last year’s notes. Maybe last January you had a pipe burst and the pond went dry, or would have gone dry if you hadn’t caught it when you did. Perhaps last January you noticed hungry migratory birds (egrets, herons, osprey?) after your “sleeping” fish. Last January, did you notice how much evaporation occurs underneath the ice cover? Sure, the pond still needs to be topped off, but more slowly so not to change the water temperature noticeably. January is also the time to exchange garden gifts which you didn’t care for and replace them with something nice, maybe a water lily or new filter media for the pond. January is not the time to start feeding; and it isn’t the time to enjoy the waterfall or BBQ outdoors, usually. Go out and take pictures of the sleeping pond. Check for leaks (muddy spots around the pond). If you have a nice day, get any bamboo out of the way before it pokes through the liner. Check that animals haven’t tried to cross the pond where the ice may not support them. Put up fencing or netting, if necessary. It’s not too late. And plan for spring and summer!

Yellow Jackets do not lose their stingers, so they can sting repeatedly when disturbed. It hurts! And these guys are drawn to water so be careful when working around the pond.

An occasional koi will have the allergic reaction to Yellow Jacket sting when they try to eat them. Not all koi will be harmed, but, yes, it can happen.

Be careful collecting water plants in the wild: water hemlock is toxic to koi. It isn’t sold in nurseries, thank goodness.

Herbal Water Conditioners, such as Sabbactisun and Parazoryne, can effectively prevent bacterial and parasitic disease when used promptly, without adding toxins to the water.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

I had a lot of questions about using Autumn Winter Prep after the last newsletter. Most were from northern areas where the hobbyist was concerned about getting it in “before the water freezes.” Well, this should not be a problem. In order for our pond to remain healthy and have an opening in the ice for gas exchange (bad gas out, oxygen in) most people will use manufactured de-icers, bubblers (aerators, placed about 1’ from the surface of the pond) and home-made contraptions… anything, just to keep an opening in the ice cover. I tell people that if there is any opening in the ice, there is a place to add Microbe-Lift/AWP on a monthly basis. No, you do not have to double-up with dosages in order to beat the weather. We need the bacteria in there to continue breakdown of organic waste. Although there will be much less (now that we are no longer feeding the fish), the bacterial strains in AWP will work at water temperatures below 55F (12C) and under ice and snow. In addition, the water-soluble packets contain cellulase enzymes to work at any leaves or leaf particles that get through the net. Yes, we need winter bacteria, too. Use it as directed for best results.

They say “Copying is the ultimate compliment.” We’ve all been exposed to advertising from competitors that claim their bacteria product is as good as ours (or better). Well, we beg to differ! We have done extensive tests, with our named competitors who claim superiority to Microbe-Lift, and the results are clearly VISIBLE on our website. View our bacteria and the competition’s, under the microscope, and see the Microbe-Lift difference! Go to the home page at www.MicrobeLift.com and click “View Now” next to the "Bacterial Comparison Video". If you had any questions about which product has the most bacteria, you will really want to see this. The documentary clearly explains the step-by-step process by which three products were examined, compared, and then scientifically proved the others to be no competition at all. Nothing compares to the original MICROBE-LIFT/PL.

Feeding your koi insects and larvae from the garden is not a good idea. They may have been exposed to insecticides and other chemicals which can harm your koi and fancy goldfish. It’s much safer to use Legacy Dried Silkworm Pupae as a fresh insect protein additive.

If your fish do not eat as quickly as they have over the summer, check your water temperature. It may be getting too cold at night and the fish may not be able to eat. Remember, it is advisable to stop feeding when the water temperatures reach 50F consistently (more or less). Koi may still be hungry, but they don’t know what the weather forecast will be. A cold snap can harm fish with a gut full of food.

Make sure your fish have sufficient oxygen in the pond over winter. Colder temperatures and a frozen surface can create oxygen depletion. Maintain an opening in the ice if your pond begins to freeze. If you are still adding Autumn Winter Prep, use the opening to add the product as scheduled.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Have you begun using Microbe-Lift/Autumn Winter Prep yet? Seasons change slower in some areas of the country, faster in others. Up north, you already know it’s fall, with winter not far behind. Autumn Winter Prep is a 4-month application process. Some have difficulty deciding if AWP is right for them. Well, it probably is, especially if you have a cold season and especially if that cold season is accompanied by winds, possibly tree leaves falling. There are two products in AWP: a liquid bacteria for the transition to colder weather, since we will cease using PL by 45F; and water-soluble packets of cellulase enzymes and special cold-temperature bacteria in a bran base. The cellulase enzymes will work on removing cellulose (twigs and leaves) which is more important in winter months after fish become dormant and feeding has ceased. There will be very little fish pooping going on in the pond during winter, but leaves need help to break down. They can build up rapidly on the bottom, creating anaerobic zones, producing hydrogen sulfide and even methane gas, if left undisturbed. It’s important to break these leaves down and get rid of them. Use AWP and rest assured your pond, like your car, has been “winterized.”

Fish, like koi, can become obese, too! Too much fat in the food, too much food and too little exercise will make your fish FAT and unhealthy. So, yes, you can kill them with kindness.

Fancy Goldfish with the big bodies need sinking food to prevent swim bladder problems. Feed them Microbe-Lift/Legacy Sinking Food! It has all the balanced nutritional needs of your prize Ryukin, Tosakin, or Ranchu. Less air in the food, less problems for the big boys & girls.

Orfes are considered good “population control” in the pond because they are excellent at eating bugs and will consume small fry as well. However, Orfes (Golden Orfes) are a delicate fish, sensitive to their surroundings. They hate salt in the water. They will alert a pond owner quickly to pH spike or crash, by dying first. Golden Orfes are the canaries of the pond. They grow to around 18” and are torpedo-shaped.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

ECO-GREEN is also going to be the coin word for 2009! With greater awareness of the fragility of our environment, more people are adjusting lifestyles to live responsibly. We are aware of the dangers from harsh chemicals, aerosols, deforestation and the changing ocean water quality. We are recycling usable furniture, plastics, household and paper products. We want clean air, clean water. We want our children to enjoy a healthy planet. The last century has caught up with us, showing how foolhardy “waste” was when we thought the world was limitless. Well, Ecological Laboratories, Inc is introducing (in the spring, 2009) Sabbactisun and Parazoryne for your ponds as well. These two herbal water conditioners will work to make parasitic and bacterial disease a thing of the past, without chemicals. They have been very effective and used widely in Europe, but now they’re coming to us! Look for them in the spring.  Use them as preventative as well as treatment. The world is changing and we are changing with it.

As most of you know, we have been publishing a bi-annual magazine through Microbe-Lift dealers across the United States and Canada for two (plus) years. The response has been overwhelming. Comments have been extremely positive. THIS YEAR we hope to be able to share the magazine with even MORE hobbyists. The Microbe-Lift Watergardener magazine will be coming to you on-line this fall for the fall/winter issue 2008! As a new experiment, we are going to try going ECO-GREEN and save a tree by NOT printing ONE COPY a YEAR. Right in line with our ecologically sound philosophies, we want to conserve natural resources, save landfill space, and taxpayer dollars that go to recycling in many areas of the country. This is Ecological Laboratories, Inc’s effort to save the environment for future generations. Sooo, I will let you know as soon as it is available. Look for the on-line version of the Microbe-Lift Watergardener magazine.

It’s time to start using Autumn Winter Prep now. You can continue using Microbe-Lift/PL in your pond, but start adding the liquid bacteria in AWP now. It’s a four-month application process (once a month). The packets are water-soluble and pre-measured. Packets contain strong cold-weather bacteria and cellulase enzymes to break down leaves. Leaves do not break down readily, but lay in the water, very slowly decomposing over a period of years. Use AWP to keep your pond clean. Add the packets after leaves have begun to fall in your area.

Pond netting will not keep out all leaves and some pieces will fall through the net.

Leaves, if left in the pond, will turn the water brown-ish or yellow. They can also affect pH, oxygen demand, hydrogen sulfide build-up, methane, and etcetera in anaerobic zones.

Hydrogen Sulfide and water (under the ice) can create sulfuric acid.

Frogs do not need a cover of leaf litter in the bottom of your pond to get through the winter. That layer will only serve as a great place for parasites and undesirable bacteria to flourish.

What your fish and plants need most this winter is a clean pond!

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Algae- still the number one issue for most people.  Algae can be a combination of any number of algal varieties, probably 40 different species in your pond at any given time.  Looking at spirogyra, it’s easy to see that this variety simply loves nutrient-rich water, no matter where it is.  Recently, I learned of another variety, Didymo, I never heard of before.  This algae looks like sludge, but is really a very invasive plant.  The real name is Didymosphenia geminata, a single-celled alga, within a group of algae called diatoms (Baccilariophyta).
 

“Didymo is an algal diatom that forms long stalks which combine to form heavy, thick mats that can smother a stream bottom. The stalks can persist for two or more months after the diatoms die, causing habitat damage for an extended period of time. Originally found in Scotland and extreme northern Europe and Asia, Didymo has been transported worldwide. Recently, the species has been found in the northeast and mid-Atlantic regions of the United States.”

-Excerpted from the Chesapeake Heritage Conservatory news.

Use AlgAway 5.4 or Green Clean to control this slimy, grey alga if you see it in your pond or stream.  Nets can be treated with a 5% salt solution to disinfect them and not transfer these algae to other waters.

When the water temperatures in your pond are over 85ºF cut back on feeding regimen. Feed 1-2x daily as fish cannot metabolize at high temperatures or low temperatures. Legacy Cold Weather formula can again be used for easier absorption.

If your water temperatures reach 90F, you should stop feeding the fish to save their energies…

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Carolyn attended the AKCA Seminar in Jacksonville, FL a couple of weeks ago.  This is a special annual event in which new Koi Health Advisors are certified and older ones recertified.  The 3-day event consists of classrooms and wet labs.  Koi judges are there to renew their memberships and share knowledge with members.  In case you don't know, KHA's are the liaison between your pond and your veterinarian when you need help.  Just as MICROBE-LIFT is there, we want you to know there are people all over the country willing (and able) to do house calls, to problem-solve your dilemma.

Keeping a clean pond (organic matter-free) and healthy stocking level goes a long way to preventing problems in the first place.  Use MICROBE-LIFT/PL, TheraP, Sludge Away and the myriad other products for the health of your pets. ML/Legacy foods also help prevent decline of water quality by adding bacteria to the pellets, which promote more complete digestion.  This means less waste in the pond and less work for your filter.  If you are preparing your fish for a koi show, two of our foods do not contain any spirulina or astaxanthin (color enhancers found in many foods).  So, if you want the whites to "pop" on your fish, feed Immunostimulant and Cold Weather (wheat germ) in the weeks prior to show.  Using additional Calcium Montmorillonite Clay will also improve the colors and polish the fish.

I still get lots of calls about "algae in the pond."  First question I ask is how many fish and how many gallons of water are in the pond.  Then I ask the owner to add up the fish "inches" to see if they are over the limit.  Well, that's not always the case.  Sometimes, a too-small filter, bought for the gallonage in the pond, is also a culprit.  Other times, it is too many people in the family who enjoy feeding the fish.  Water borne nutrients are insidious…  Please do water tests.  Test for nitrates and phosphates first, when algae is problematic and everything else is okay.    When using an algaecide, you won't kill off all the beneficial bacteria, but some definitely will die.  More importantly, in hot weather the act of killing algae can inadvertently lead to fish kills.  When larger fish die first, it is generally from oxygen deprivation.  If the smaller fish die first, I would suspect an overdose (toxicity).  Algae contribute oxygen (during sunlight hours) to the water.  But when suddenly removed, it will increase oxygen demand that can harm the fish.  Sometimes a waterfall is simply inadequate.  Fish usually do not mind the algae.  Remember, whatever you use, use it responsibly.  If you have ANY question, call or email us before using it.  We are at your disposal!  And prevention is easier than resolving a problem after the fact.

-Someone who doesn’t care as much about the fish but insists on clear water?  Prefers chemicals to the slower natural processes?  If so, you may want to learn more about AlgAway 5.4, which is safe for plants and fish, but will clear up the water quickly, and OxyPond Cleaner to get rid of unsightly mess.

-Someone who wants to save $$ on costs and labor of maintaining the pond?  If so, Microbe-Lift/PL may be your answer.  Bacteria cannot be washed out of a pond but can be killed by chemicals (including chlorine/chloramines), so you can backwash the filter more easily (less often) or do water change without losing the power to clean organic waste on a 24/7 basis. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

The good news is we have algaecides that can be used to get rid of the problem growth. The bad news is it will come right back unless you fix the “real” problem(s). If you have that much algae that you need to maintain the pond with an algaecide, there is a bigger problem that you are not addressing. The primary causes of excessive algae growth would be high nitrates and phosphates, too much sun or too shallow a pond with little circulation, too many fish, over feeding, too little filtration, and I could go on. But you need to take a look at the real problem if you are to ever have any lasting relief in your pond. I reserve chemical use as an “intervention”, for emergencies rather than for maintenance. And if the emergency does arise, we have Microbe-Lift/Algaway 5.4 which is safe for fish and plants and EPA registered.

What constitutes an algae emergency? That would be a condition of filamentous growth in which everything is being crowded out, filter mechanisms clogged, and in general, the pond begins to look more like a sump than an ornamental fish pond (or water garden) (and begins to smell). Short of that, I would suggest using Microbe-Lift/PL and ML/Sludge Away to clean any seen or unseen debris on the bottom if you do not have a bottom drain. Any organic waste in the system is fodder for algae growth. There’s Microbe-Lift/Barley Straw Pellets and ML/Barley Straw Concentrated Extracts (one contains peat and one does not) to tie up those nutrients that primarily feed the algae. These are natural approaches to algae control rather than chemical maintenance and will not harm your filter bacteria. Remember, prevention is easier than the cure. For the amount of fish to stock, you should have at least 10 gallons of filtered, aerated water per fish inch of koi and 8.5 gallons per fish inch of goldfish or Shubunkin, and that doesn't even include the amount of waste produced by frogs. I would suggest you have no less than 1,500-gal for your crew. Anything less, you will definitely have algae problems.  ou should have good filtration that can handle the load. The troublesome algae may really be a life-saver, whether you realize it or not, by taking up nutrients that can build to toxic levels over time, if you do not do regular water changes. You need to do water tests, water changes when nutrient levels are too high, and check on the stocking density of your pond, for your own peace of mind.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Prior to KHV, a spring Aeromonas outbreak was the worst thing we could imagine in our koi ponds. We learned that through good pond husbandry most of the Aeromonas infections can be circumvented. Aeromonas breaks out during temperature changes, spring and fall, in water temperatures of 45-62ºF. This is because your fish's immune systems are not fully functioning but the Aeromonas bacteria are! In just a few degrees higher, the fish will have caught up to the bad guys. But, when the occasional fish or two show up with obvious ulcers, what will you do? Do you throw a lot of medicines into the pond? Or do you quarantine the affected fish, treat with POND SALT, and raise the temperature in the hospital tank? At 65ºF the fish will be eating, so feed them medicated food. Medicated food will sink, so do not feed them any floating foods during this time. You want them hungry enough to look “down” for their sustenance. In serious cases, a veterinarian may be needed to assist with injectable antibiotics. (You DO have a quarantine tank, don't you??)

Did you remember to add ML/TheraP to your pond, to stimulate the immune systems of your fish? Are you adding PL to keep a cleaner environment? You should be. Your fish have nowhere else to go if their living space is “too dirty” to be habitable. When your water temperature is above 55-60ºF, if you have any rocks on the bottom, or if you have no bottom drain, it's time to begin using Sludge Away (along with the PL and TheraP). It isn't the amount of plants in your pond that make it healthy. It's the unseen bacteria. Come to think of it, we have bacteria and trace element products to make your plants work harder, taking more nutrients out of the water. So, for those of you who are water gardeners, use Ensure and Bloom & Grow to get the most out of your plants WITHOUT feeding the algae.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

In spring your fish will face many stresses: the weather, predators, parasites and disease, to name a few. I’m sure (when temperatures dictate) your fish will once again start swimming at the surface, nibbling algae off the sides of the pond. Most likely some of you will dig out some of last year’s leftover fish food. One of the biggest spring problems is the fluctuating temperatures, the uncertainty of tomorrow’s weather. Although we are never sure what the following day (or the next hour) will bring, spring can throw seemingly-summer days followed by blizzards. It is not the time to start feeding the fish. Once your area is reliably frost-free, you can consider starting to feed, preferably with a wheat-germ-based food. Your fish do not have the brain process that tells them (at least not accurately!) when they are hungry. They are foragers, always eating small amounts, in their natural environment. Think of them as a herd of cattle, grazing all day and into the night. Their stomach is an elongated intestine which will continue to process today’s food for the next 3-4 days before it is empty. Of course, that is at 60-70F temperatures, not 45-50F. At lower temperatures the whole process will slow down and eventually cease altogether. This is the reason not to feed on a nice sunny day in March or April, if there is any chance of the temperatures dropping again. Your fish do not benefit from a “full stomach” as you do, but will benefit more from being able to extract nutrients from that food you fed them over the next few days.

The next problem is last year’s fish food. By this time it has lost a lot of its nutritional value, as amino acids break down in a relatively short period of time. This is especially true if the food was not vacuum-sealed when it was new. Freezing foods can disrupt molecules and reduce nutrition, so freezing is not recommended either. Fat content in old food can become rancid, too, which may not even be noticeable to you, but your fish can become sick from eating it. The best rule of thumb is to purchase new food every season to be sure you aren’t neglecting, or even harming your fish.

As much as we look forward to spring, when the crocuses poke through and are replaced by daffodils and tulips, we do not look forward to our warm weather “friends”- mosquitoes.  Many people still insist they will never contract West Nile Virus or their dogs and cats won’t become heartworm victims.  But they do.  Here in southwest Florida, mosquitoes never really go away.  On any warm day, just like magic, they are back.  The most effective natural control for mosquitoes is Bti bacteria, or Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis.  They do not attack mosquito larvae.  The Bti mind their own business but produce sweet sugar-like crystals that mosquito larvae just love to eat.  It is these crystals that kill mosquito larvae. Our Biological Mosquito Control (BMC) is quicker and cleaner than any other brand on the market.  It can be used in a sprayer for large open field areas.  It is completely safe (hasn’t harmed my dogs who drink out of the pond) for other wildlife, fish and plants.  In fact, it’s only the mosquitoes and some small black flies that are even interested in those crystals, or small enough to ingest them to be affected.  Mosquitoes are more likely to breed in your clogged gutter and plant saucers than your pond, but with some care, all our families can be safer this year from diseases carried by these vectors.  MICROBE-LIFT/BMC, safe and effective! 

NOTE: MICROBE-LIFT/BMC IS NOT AVAILABLE IN CANADA

* MICROBE-LIFT/Super Activated Carbon will remove liquefied impurities (tannin from leaves in the pond) from your pond water.

* MICROBE-LIFT/PL Gel works best when stored in refrigeration.

* MICROBE-LIFT/Test Strips will make water testing simple, letting you know when to do water changes.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Ecological Laboratories, Inc. has a new face in Cape Coral, Florida; in accordance with our name, we have landscaped to conserve precious water supplies!  Ecological Laboratories cares about the environment, which is why we not only used native plants that will grow in the SWF heat, but over time, will conserve water.  It is beautiful!  This is the same technology we apply to the entire MICROBE-LIFT product line.  MICROBE-LIFT/PL is still the mainstay of every pond and ML/Sludge Away will accelerate removal process, especially in ponds that are lined with stones.  Last month, you heard about Sabbactisun and Parazoryne.  This month, we present ML/AQUA-EXTREME, which will detoxify the nitrite, remove and detoxify chlorine and ammonia, detoxify copper and heavy metals, destroy chloramines, add essential electrolytes, boost alkalinity, add a 3-part slime coat replacer, help reduce stress, and instantly age pond water. We also have Legacy Big Bites Summer Staple food for your larger koi.  If you like the Big Bites in Summer Staple, we’ll see about making the others for your BIG pond pets.  Less is more, and sometimes, bigger is really better.  I have a few large koi.  They often miss the smaller pellets, thereby missing half their meal.  With Big Bites, they will be fed less and actually eat more.

A koi show is a family venue, fun for all members of the family- something for every age.  It is important to teach the younger children not to pet other people’s fish, however, or they could unwittingly be spreading disease.  (It was at a koi show in 1998 that the dreaded KHV first reared its ugly head.  The result was many ponds wiped out, many koi died.  Nobody knew what happened.)  We haven’t achieved a cure for this disease yet, so we need to always be alert…  Most show fish only have to face ammonia spikes in their tanks over the weekend, but you never know!  Fish are living animals and deserve our care, if we choose to keep them.  MICROBE-LIFT products will help make that a more enjoyable event for you and your family.  Use MICROBE-LIFT/AQUA-EXTREME to safely fill the pond.  Use ML/Nite-Out II to start up the pond with Nitrifying bacteria.  And, use ML/PL to get the pond balanced and keep it clean.

* Koi have pharyngeal teeth to chew their food?  Way back in their throats, they are able to chew up any food that is still too large to swallow.  This is something that sets koi apart from other pond fish.

* Koi grow to 36 inches, or more, in their lives.

* Fancy goldfish will need to be treated for parasites and worms after they come into this country.  Always quarantine new fish, no matter how good they look when you buy them.  ML/Praziquantel is the recommended treatment.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Since some people would rather not use chemicals at all, MICROBE-LIFT, noted forerunner in using earth-friendly solutions to pond problems will be introducing Sabbactisun and Parazoryne, two all natural expellants to stimulate your fishes' immune system and protect from pathogenic bacterial infection.  Sabbactisun is effective against such bacterial diseases as: bacterial dropsy, fungus, milky skin, fin/tail rot, ulcers, bulging eyes, raised scales and mouth rot.  These herbal water conditioners will allow the fish to self-heal!  How about parasitic diseases?  The Parazoryne is effective against these:  white spots, Costia, flukes, Trichodina, Oodinium and Chilodonella through its amazing natural immune-stimulating properties!    Did I mention it is safe for all fresh and brackish water species and will not color the water or create a resistance in these targeted diseases/parasites??  It is environmentally friendly and safe for your nitrifying bacteria and aquatic plants. So, look for these two ground-breakers in the near future at an independent MICROBE-LIFT dealer near you.

MICROBE-LIFT/Super Activated Carbon is not only a selective filtering media; ours is the elite of all carbons, hence the name "super-activated".   Carbons absorb certain types of molecules and catalyze others.  It absorbs gases & liquids.  It removes iodine, phenols, tannins, and helps remove chlorine and some hydrocarbons.  Super-Activated carbon lasts longer and is able to remove more of the targeted pollutants.  It will not filter out metals or salts effectively, so it won't remove iron, magnesium, phosphates, potassium or any trace elements essential to fish and plant growth.  It also won't remove sodium, so is safe to use with salt.  The primary reason I recommend using this product in pond filters would be to take out the liquefied impurities, or tea-color that may be a result of leaves breaking down in your system, and any chemicals that have been sprayed in your area that do not belong in the pond.  Most pond owners want clean, CLEAR water.  It can also remove medications, so add Super-Activated Carbon after treating to remove residual chemicals.  Go to www.microbelift.com for more information on any of our products.  Personally, Carolyn is also using this very superior type of carbon (charcoal) in her aquarium filter!  It lasts longer and does a better job than the competition.  This is THE product for "clear" water.

* All organisms need trace amounts of copper, nickel and zinc, essential for survival.  However, they can easily reach toxic levels in the pond or aquarium, without water changes, as needed.  Water should be tested regularly.

* All fish need (trace) iodine for metabolism.  We use non-iodized salt in ponds to prevent toxicity, which will affect beneficial bacteria, in certain concentrations.

* Large-bodied fancy goldfish are best over wintered indoors if you live in the north.  Single-tailed, comets will do very well outside, in the pond, all year 'round.

* Algae differ from terrestrial plants in that a single cell contains all it needs to grow and reproduce.  Therefore a minute particle can regrow the entire plant. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Winter algae is no more dangerous to your pond than summer, with one big difference—it is a basic food source for the fish when water temperatures hit brief warm spells and you are not feeding them.  You’re not supposed to feed below 50F, right?  So, what if the water is 45F and the fish look hungry?  They should have sufficient algae to sustain them through the winter months when they need much less energy to survive.  I don’t recommend using an algaecide this time of year if you are north of the Mason-Dixon Line.  Southern ponds may feel free to use MICROBE-LIFT/ Algaway 5.4 to minimize the algae growth in their ponds.  I just used it in my 75-gallon fish tank (fancy goldfish are dirtier than koi!) and have a nice clean tank again—no more algae to take away from the looks of the fish.

Goldfish do well in 16 hours of daylight and 8 hours of darkness--Prefer temperatures in the high 70’s (Fahrenheit)-- And they need heavy filtration if kept in a fish tank rather than an outdoor pond. 

The large-bodied fancy Chinese goldfish will easily develop swim bladder problems if they take in too much oxygen, so always feed sinking foods.  [I feed mine MICROBE-LIFT/Sinking Pellets exclusively, with frozen red worms as a treat once or twice a month.]  The Nitrite removing bacteria (Nitrobacter) need oxygen and are sensitive to water conditions, such as too warm or cold, salt, and any medications.  Try to keep the Carbonate Hardness (stabilizes pH) around 7.4, which is ideal.  Oxygen of 8ppm and above is desirable.  Total Alkalinity should be 100ppm or more to keep the pH stable for longer periods of time, but should not exceed 300 ppm.  More is not always better!  With well water, my fish had a terrible time with General Hardness (mineral content) which includes calcium and magnesium carbonate.  I lost fish when it exceeded 300ppm.

*Use MICROBE-LIFT/Aquarium Balancer, Special Blend and TheraP for most water conditions and have a healthy tank.

* An overstocked pond can be created by fish growth.
* Those brown fish in your pond are Magoi, or koi throwbacks, and do not develop colors later in life.
* Koi can take pH that rises, but hate it when it drops!  PH crashes kill fish…

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

I get calls all the time asking about MICROBE-LIFT/Autumn Winter Prep directions.  It’s easier than it looks folks.  All you need to do is start the liquid portion of this product when the pond water temperatures are in the 50-55F range.  The time to think about adding the water soluble dry packets (included in the package) is when the leaves are already falling from trees in your area.  This packet contains cellulase enzyme and cellulase enzyme producing bacteria.  These bacteria are psychrophilic, or cold-weather bacteria.  They speed up breakdown and removal of any leaf debris that blows or falls into your pond over the winter months.  There are two primary ways to apply AWP:  either simply toss the packet(s) into the pond, where it will dissolve by itself, or mix it into a bucket of warm water until dissolved completely, and then apply around the perimeter of the pond for good coverage.  What you see is the bran base, not the bacteria, so if your fish eat it, there’s no harm being done.  Other good winter preparation after a good cleaning would be to check for leaks and decide whether to cover the pond for winter.  If you decide to turn off pumps and filters, remember to drain the water out of any above-ground utilities before they freeze or they will crack.  Ecological Laboratories, Inc is coming out with Praziquantel so you can treat your pond annually in spring for flukes and worms without harming the filter.

Your water is pure, no pollutants.  However, everything that is attracted to water (dust, pollen, leaves, organic and inorganic matter) in addition to whatever is being produced by pond inhabitants, is building up in the water.  Evaporation cannot remove these.  The only way to remove these pollutants (and replace minerals) is through water changes.  The biggest fish I ever saw received a lot of water changes.  Japanese koi farmers use the terms “old” and “new” water to describe what we are talking about with doing water changes as it impacts your pond.  It is not necessary to “waste” water by sending it down the drain when doing a water change.  Set up a RECYCLE program for your pond water.  Half the country is not concerned about wasting water while the other half (or two thirds) is in drought at present.  The state of Georgia has banned use of garden sprinklers, so something else must be done to the changed-out pond water for the sake of your fish.  With lower water tables, more disinfectants will be added to drinking water, so please be careful.  Ecological Laboratories, Inc. is coming out with more new water products:  look for AQUA XTREME, use Super-Activated Carbon, and when needed, use Vitamins & Amino Acids to replace important nutrients removed by water purification systems!

When I arrived home from the San Antonio koi show, my fish were unaccountably stressed, as evidenced by the “bleeding” fins.  I immediately thought nitrites or ammonia.  But I did water tests and everything was perfect.  The only thing that was high was phosphate levels.  Then I took a sample to the lab and found TDS (total dissolved solids) of 1800+.  My water was crystal clear, but becoming toxic due to the drought, I assumed.  However, once I had a “reason” I knew what to do.  I added a media bag filled with Barley Straw Pellets to the pond.  It took about 1 ½ to 2 days for the fish to de-stress.  Barley Straw with peat will chelate any toxic minerals such as zinc, copper, and even phosphate that is in the water. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

I’ve just read a report by http://WestNile.ca.gov (California West Nile Virus Website) and noted the numbers of people affected.  They reported 164 human cases in 23 counties, with 10 fatalities (so far).  They show a total of 48 counties affected by West Nile Virus.  I am also a horse-lover.  They report 16 horses to date, with 5 fatalities, in 9 counties.  This is very distressing news!  It should also be distressing for pond owners… since everyone is looking suspiciously at any bodies of water as potential breeding sites.  With 673 positive mosquito samples, in 22 counties, collected by the government workers, how serious is this to you?  Is your government throwing tax dollars in the millions at this problem, with little measurable success?  So, in addition to being distressing it is also very frustrating.

EVERYONE should be using larvacides on their property.  There are natural Bti larvacides that will not build up toxic layers in the soil, as chemicals will, and are very effective in eliminating the developing mosquito larva.  Chemicals will leave a residue that builds up over time and does not break down.  Microbe-Lift/BMC contains the live Bti bacteria.  BMC can be prepared and applied with a sprayer, so why are your governments not using it?  The liquid should be used as a spray to cover all areas of your yard, including potted plants (and the pond).

Do mosquitoes only breed in standing water?  No, they will breed in any moist area, flower pot tray or bird bath.  I’ve found the larvae in my vortex filters where the fish do not go.  If you look closely, very closely, you can most likely find them in and around your water lilies too.  They will cling to the bottoms of the lily pads and stems until disturbed.  Fish will not eat them once they are large enough to eat regular pellets.  Mosquitoes simply do not provide enough protein, so the fish don’t even bother.  Just because you have fish in the pond is no assurance of having no mosquitoes emerging from your pond.  Look around the edges of the pond and in amongst the rocks that line the pond.  You will find them.  Always use bug-spray when going into the garden and use the only liquid, “rapid response” Bti, MICROBE-LIFT/BMC, to get rid of them in 12-24 hours, before they fly off in search of food.

The “heat is on” for pond owners in California right now!  And California is not the only one…

NOTE: MICROBE-LIFT/BMC is not available in Canada.

My goldfish have taken up a routine of spawning every two weeks in the tank, but with no spare tank, there will be no babies this year.  Feeding the big-bodied goldfish requires special care.  These fish are prone to swim bladder problems if they take in too much surface oxygen while feeding.  This is why I feed only MICROBE-LIFT/Legacy Sinking koi & goldfish food.  It has all the scientific nutritional requirements, is very palatable, and SINKS, so my fish won’t bloat after feeding.  Since I began feeding the sinking food to the goldfish, I’ve found it even more successful in feeding my koi.  I no longer have food being trapped in the skimmer.  The fish get ALL the food and therefore all the benefits.  I’m actually feeding less and enjoying my pond more. When given a choice of floating and sinking (combination) food, they immediately follow the floating food down to the bottom FIRST.  Why am I surprised?  Koi are bottom feeding fish.  They still race over to greet me where I can inspect and enjoy them.  They know who feeds them.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Across the country I can see we are having floods in Texas and Illinois; fires in Idaho, Florida and Georgia; drought in Colorado and even some flash floods in New York…?  Well, what does this do for your fish?  And what can you do about it?  For starters, these are our “charges” and members of the family, so they need to be taken care of.  When the water temperatures reach 85F, it’s time to consider feeding only Microbe-Lift/Legacy Cold Weather wheat germ food, once a day.  If it reaches 88, 89, or 90F, you should discontinue feeding until the temperatures drop again.  If your area is flooding, an overflow pipe will be important, and a net over the top to KEEP FISH IN the pond would be a really good idea.  A spare pump to take water out of the pond can be very helpful in emergencies.  When more rain is expected you can prepare by dropping the water level in advance.  Keep using Microbe-Lift/PL, Sludge Away and TheraP to help maintain a more stable and clean environment for the fish.  Anything that washes into the pond must come out.  Those in drought areas, unable to do water changes, will need to seriously cut back on feeding, and definitely use the Microbe-Lift/PL or HC to maintain the best water quality.

Some of you know I bought two fancy goldfish.  Well, one has died already.  Like they say, it’s the expensive fish that die, never the cheap ones.  Because they all came from the same breeder (there were four of them, two were gifts) I didn’t think to do any quarantine.  Bad idea.  Always quarantine new fish, no matter what.  Do it for the sake of the fish.  My mistake just cost one fish its life.  The quarantine should be 21 days, consisting of salt (0.1%-0.3%), heat and good filtration.  The fish should be monitored for any changes or signs of trouble.  They should be fed Microbe-Lift/Legacy Medicated Antibacterial Food for at least 5 days.  Water changes should be done weekly and the Koi Cocktail (Pond Fish Parasite Treatment, Pond Fish Wound Healant, Pond Fish Anti-fungal Treatment, and Pond Fish Protectant—mixed together in equal amounts and then dosed as you would for any one product) should be used to complete the treatment and acclimation process.  It could save a life! 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Even customers in northern regions have been calling with temperatures in the high 90’s.  [Whereas A/C might be a luxury up north, it is standard and built into every home in SW Florida where we know how to stay cool.]  The heat presents another stress to your fish, especially in shallow ponds.  Don’t worry about the algae in this heat.  Take a look at how you are feeding your fish and whether there is an ordinance preventing the weekly water change.  Always refer to the water temps, not air temps, even in direct sun.  When water temps reach 85F, cut back to feeding only 1-2 times daily and switch back to Legacy Cold Weather (Wheat Germ) food.  Fish don’t metabolize well at extreme temperatures, either high or low.  At 90F, stop feeding.  It can stress the fish to use that energy trying to absorb nutrients.  Wait until the water temps return to 85F and below to resume feeding high protein foods.  Also provide plenty of aeration and add Microbe-Lift/TheraP for the health of your pets.  Wherever possible, do 25% water changes weekly and we’ll get through the heat safe and sound.
VACATIONING, WITH PONDS 
Leaving your pond with a babysitter can be stressful to you as well as the fish.  Some suggestions for a safe vacation (for your fish) are:

* Package individual portions, marked for each day/time, so the sitter can’t overfeed.  Move all other foods where they won’t be seen. (Less is definitely more in this case.)

* Do a 50% water change the day before leaving on vacation, clean the filter, add PL and TheraP, and salt to 0.1% (1 lb per 100 gallons) with Microbe-Lift Therapeutic Pond Salt.

* Arrange for a trusted friend or KHA to stop by to check on the fish and leave the name and number of these person/persons, so the sitter can contact them in case of power outage or other emergency.

* Add an additional aerator, bubbler to the pond and disconnect any fountains that could drain the pond if blown over.

Praziquantel is perhaps the ONE medication for worms and flukes/parasites for your pond fish that will NOT kill your filter bacteria.

Nitrifying bacteria can’t do the job in low pH conditions.  They need at least pH 7.0.

Fountain Clear has bacteria and natural chemical chelating agents to tie up the calcium and magnesium ions so they cannot react with other compounds to form the hard deposits.  This chelating agent is natural and biodegradable so it can be used in a pond.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Microbe-Lift/ PL, Microbe-Lift/ Nite-Out II, and Calcium Montmorillonite Clay, to name a few, are not really new.  I was using these products in the pond up in NY.  I was also using ML/ Barley Straw Concentrated Extract to tie up nutrients… (Nitrates and phosphates are the ones that create most of the green chaos in ponds this time of year)… and I continue to do so in my new pond in Florida.  When adding fish to a new pond, I didn’t have to worry about chlorine and chloramine in the water- I’m on well water.  But I did have to get some Nitrifying bacteria and Heterotrophic bacteria going in there.  By using ML/PL and ML/Nite-Out II, I was able to add the fish without doing any of the normal acclimational chemistry we are used to as hobbyists.  The Nitrifiers are in the Nite-Out II and my pond has adequate Total Alkalinity to support nitrification, so I have neither detectable ammonia nor nitrites after adding four good-sized koi.  The PL will assure that the filter maintains the cleanliness of the pond with the least amount of maintenance.  A couple of the fish missed their former feedings of freshly chopped shrimp (the old owner spoiled them nicely), but I offered them ML/Legacy Crustacean, Krill, and Kelp treats and everybody is thrilled in their new home.  See, I know how to spoil my koi, too!  They are receiving ML/Calcium Montmorillonite Clay with every feeding to assure good health and the cleanest colors, ML/Dried Silkworm Pupae to polish their skin, and anything else they need.  I have them in 0.3% ML/Quarantine Tank Salt after their long journey by car from Ft. Lauderdale to Cape Coral, in case anybody tore a fin or feels faint.  So, what’s new?  Just the fish!

I receive many calls from people wanting to know how to clear up their water and see the fish again.  Here’s what I tell them:  First, take a glass of this water, set it on the picnic table in the sun and look at it.  Does it have any color?  Is it green, tan, or does it have anything floating in it?  Then leave it alone for about 3 hours.  Come back and check to see if it is clear or if anything has settled out.

If: the glass is green tinted, then it’s algae and it is living, so PL won’t kill it.  At least it won’t kill it directly.  A UV light will help greatly.  Microbe-Lift/Algaway 5.4 will also help to remove the algae if it is that bad, but this type of algae generally takes a few applications because it reproduces very quickly.

If: the glass has any sediment on the bottom, then it just had suspended particulate matter, which can be flocculated out.  This generally occurs when the pump is inside the pond, pureeing the poop into pieces that are too small for the filter to remove, so it stays in the water.  Calcium Montmorillonite Clay will flocculate the particles with ionic attraction and take them out of the water column where it can be vacuumed out.  Flocculent Plus will also help to remove those particles.
If: the water in the glass still looks cloudy, then you probably need to add ML/Super-Activated Carbon to remove the liquefied impurities, such as tannins.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

The pondless Pondlady is no longer pondless!  I have a veritable high-tech koi pond with all the bells and whistles.  One thing which is not generally considered standard issue for a koi pond, but is found in mine, is an escape ladder.  While attending a fish health seminar in Reno, NV, recently, I attended a lecture on bog filters.  At home, the pond was under construction.  The lecturer spoke about certain dangers in order to prove a point, that bog filters were invariably safer than traditional straight-sided koi ponds.  I had to agree with him, but mine was already straight-sided, 5’ deep, and reinforced with concrete.  I had the two bottom drains installed and in a couple of days the gunnite would be applied, etcetera.  This frightened me enough to walk outside and call the pond builder.  No, I didn’t order a bog filter, I ordered a ladder!  It would not be some nameless somebody who accidentally fell into my pond at some time in the future and could not get out because of the slippery sides (and being too fat to lift ones self out over the edge)… it would be me. So, with all the precautions we take to safeguard our ponds, our fish and insurance for our homes and families, I think a ladder is a small price to pay for a “REAL” koi pond.  After all, I have to be here to answer questions for you guys when you call… and I don’t think my fish are that stupid.  They will adapt to living with a ladder in their pond.

Malachite green when used in conjunction with 0.2 % salt concentrations and over can be toxic to Koi.  Remember that salt, although benign, should be used with caution when adding other chemicals.

Always clean your mechanical filters and keep the bottom of your pond clean. Air diffusers are an excellent method of aerating your water in the warm summer months, especially if they are helping circulate the dirty water into a bottom drain. Otherwise, try a trickle tower to remove toxic gases and add oxygen to the water.  Oxygen rich water is beneficial for Microbe-Lift bacteria and fish. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

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